Restaurants in Sliema and St Julian’s

Malta’s dining scene is small but competitive. Sliema and St Julian’s are the busiest hubs, and that means you’ll find everything from €4 pastizzi to €80 tasting menus. The problem? The promenades are packed with places that look identical — plastic menus in English, a waiter outside trying to pull you in, and food that’s fine but forgettable.

I’ve lived here for three years and eaten at over 60 restaurants across both towns. This list isn’t comprehensive. It’s the ones I actually return to — places where the owner remembers your name, or the pasta is made in front of you, or the view genuinely justifies the bill.

What Most Tourists Get Wrong About Eating Here

The biggest mistake is trusting the promenade-facing restaurants in Sliema. The ones with the big photos of pasta outside and the ‘€10 three-course menu’ signs. The rent on those spots is insane — a 50-seat terrace on the Sliema waterfront costs €8,000–€12,000 a month. That money has to come from somewhere, and it comes from the quality of ingredients and the skill of the kitchen.

The second mistake is sticking to one area. Sliema and St Julian’s are connected by a 2km coastal walk, but the food culture shifts completely between them. Sliema is more residential and family-run. St Julian’s pulls in the finance crowd and the nightlife people. Paceville, the party district in St Julian’s, is a food wasteland — avoid it unless you want kebab at 3am.

Here’s the rule I follow: walk 5 minutes inland from the main Sliema promenade. The rents drop, the menus get shorter, and the food gets better. It’s that simple.

Three Sliema Spots for Lunch That Aren’t Tourist Traps

Ta’ Kris — The Maltese Platter You Actually Want

Ta’ Kris is on a side street off Tigné Seafront, up a narrow staircase. No view, no airs. The menu is handwritten on a chalkboard and changes based on what’s at the market. Go for the Maltese platter (€18) — it comes with ġbejniet (dried cheeselets), bigilla (bean dip), sun-dried tomatoes, olives, and fresh bread. That’s enough for two people as a light lunch.

What I like: the owner, Kris, walks around and explains where each cheese comes from. One is from Gozo, one from a farm in Rabat. That level of detail tells you they care.

Price range: €12–€25 per person. Open for lunch only, Tuesday–Saturday.

Nenu the Artisan Baker — Rabbit Pie and Bread Done Right

Nenu’s is a 10-minute walk inland from the Sliema Ferries area, on Triq San Gwann. The specialty is Maltese ftira — a flatbread baked in a wood-fired oven. Order the one with local ġbejniet and wild rocket (€9). The dough is chewy, charred on the bottom, and nothing like the dry versions you get at cafes.

They also do a rabbit pie (€14) that’s better than most restaurants in Mdina. The pastry is lard-based, flaky, and holds up against the rich gravy. I eat here at least once a month.

Munchies — The Falafel Wrap That Beats Every Kebab Shop

Munchies is on Triq L-Imrabat, a 5-minute walk from the Sliema Strand. It’s a tiny takeaway with two stools. The owner, Samir, makes falafel wraps (€5.50) to order — the chickpeas are soaked overnight, ground fresh, and fried while you wait. That texture difference is huge. Most falafel in Malta is dry and crumbly. This one is soft inside, crisp outside.

Add the spicy harissa sauce (€0.50). It’s house-made and has a real kick.

St Julian’s Restaurants Worth the Walk from Paceville

Most people end up in St Julian’s because they’re staying near the Hilton or the Portomaso area. The dining options there are split between hotel restaurants (overpriced) and chain places (boring). But walk 10 minutes along the coast toward Balluta Bay, and the scene changes entirely.

Brass & Knuckle — The Burger That Ruined Fast Food for Me

Brass & Knuckle is on Triq Il-Knisja, just off Balluta Bay. It’s a small place — maybe 20 seats — and the kitchen is open. You can watch them grind the beef. The Double Smash Burger (€14) is the move. Two thin patties, American cheese, pickles, and a sauce that tastes like thousand island but better. The bun is brioche, toasted on the flat-top. It’s greasy in the right way.

They also do a chicken sandwich (€12) with buttermilk-brined breast and a spicy mayo. That one’s solid but the burger is the star.

Zeri’s — Pasta Made at Your Table

Zeri’s is on Triq San Gorg, a 7-minute walk from the Hilton. The concept is simple: they roll and cut the pasta in front of you. The menu has 6–7 pasta dishes, all under €16. The tagliatelle al limone (€14) is the one I order every time. Lemon zest, cream, parmesan, and fresh pasta that’s slightly undercooked so it has bite. It’s not revolutionary, but it’s executed perfectly.

They don’t take reservations for tables under 4. Show up at 7pm or wait 20 minutes.

Bocconcino Caffè — The Only Breakfast Worth Leaving Your Hotel For

Bocconcino is on the St Julian’s seafront, right on Balluta Bay. The coffee is from a local roaster in Mosta, and the pastries are baked on-site. The cornetti alla crema (€3.50) — Italian-style croissants filled with vanilla custard — are the best I’ve had outside Italy. The shell is light and shatters when you bite into it.

Breakfast is served until 11:30am. Their eggs Benedict (€11) uses local eggs from a farm in Mgarr. The yolk is deep orange and rich.

Where to Splurge — Two Dinners That Justify the Bill

Sometimes you want a proper dinner. A tablecloth, a wine list, a bill that makes you pause. These two places deliver on the experience.

Grain Street — Modern Maltese in a Converted Grain Silo

Grain Street is in the Valletta Waterfront, a 5-minute ferry ride from Sliema. The building is a 19th-century grain silo — stone walls, high ceilings, a massive open kitchen. The menu changes every 6 weeks based on seasonal produce. I ate here in October and had a pumpkin and goat’s curd ravioli (€22) that was the best pasta dish I’ve had in Malta. The pasta was handmade, the filling was earthy, and the brown butter sauce had sage from the chef’s garden.

The tasting menu (€65 for 7 courses) is the best value. Each course is small but perfectly balanced. Wine pairing adds €35.

Rampila — Fortified Wine and Rabbit Under the Bastions

Rampila is in Valletta, right under the St John’s Cavalier bastions. The terrace overlooks the ditch and the old fortifications. It’s dramatic, especially at sunset. The food is Maltese with French technique. The braised rabbit leg (€28) comes with a parsnip purée and a red wine reduction that’s been simmered for 8 hours. The meat falls off the bone.

They have a wine list focused on Maltese and Sicilian labels. The Marsovin Grand Ordinaire (€5 per glass) is a solid everyday red that pairs with the rabbit.

When to Skip These Towns Entirely

This is the honest part. Sliema and St Julian’s are convenient, but they’re not the best food destinations in Malta. If you have limited time, consider skipping them for these alternatives:

• Gozo for seafood: The fish market in Xlendi and the restaurants in Marsalforn serve fresher fish at lower prices. The lampuki (dorado) season runs September–December, and it’s caught locally. You won’t find that quality in Sliema.
• Mdina for atmosphere: The medieval city has restaurants like De Mondion inside a 17th-century palace. The tasting menu (€85) is expensive, but the setting is unmatched.
• Valletta for variety: Valletta has a higher concentration of independent restaurants. Walk down Strait Street — the old ‘Gut’ — and you’ll find wine bars, tapas spots, and Maltese bakeries within 200 meters.

If you’re on a budget, Sliema and St Julian’s are also not the cheapest. A meal for two with drinks at any of the places I listed above runs €40–€80. For cheaper options, head to the local bakeries (Maltese: ‘forn’) in the residential streets. A pastizz (€0.80) and a can of Kinnie (€1.20) is a legitimate lunch.

The One Thing Nobody Tells You About Eating in Sliema and St Julian’s

Reservations. Book them. Especially on weekends. I’ve walked into Zeri’s on a Saturday at 8pm and been told it’s a 45-minute wait. I’ve seen couples turned away from Ta’ Kris because they didn’t call ahead. The best restaurants here are small — 20 to 40 seats — and they fill up with locals who know to book.

Most places accept bookings through Facebook Messenger or a phone call. For the Valletta spots (Grain Street, Rampila), use their website booking system at least 3 days in advance for weekend dinners.

The other thing: cash is still king at smaller places. Ta’ Kris and Munchies don’t take cards. Nenu’s has a card machine but it ‘doesn’t work’ about 30% of the time. Carry €50 in cash and you’ll never be stuck.

I’ve been burned by both — showing up without a reservation and without cash. Don’t make the same mistakes.